KnuckleDuster Design

Hey everyone, I finally got around to building something. Sorry I took so long to contribute something. Anyway, here it is, my completely original knuckleduster design (as far as I know). It bears some resemblance to CCK's "Steel Spiked" knuckleduster from awhile back, but I promise I came up with this on my own. I've done a lot of searching and didn't find anything like my design, but if you know of one then please let me know. Also, if you have any name suggestions I'd love to hear them. I'm awful when it comes to naming stuff. Know that this isn't the final product, this is just a wood mock-up of my original drawings. I've since made some slight changes to the design but I haven't had a chance to make a revised mock-up yet. If nothing gets in the way, I'll have one made with pics up tomorrow. Basically the spikes are of the same shape and dimensions as the "Skull-Crusher" pommel found on WWI trench knives. The spikes are meant to be removable in case you don't want to completely kill your opponent. The spikes are mainly for intimidation but are functional. It's far better to scare the other guy and avoid the fight altogether IMO. When I locate someone with a waterjet near me, and get some money to pay him/her, I'll get a few sets made out of steel. The drawings don't show it, but there's supposed to be a short piece of threaded rod attached where each of the spikes are. That way they can be easily removed. So, without further ado, my original knuckleduster design.


This is my original draft.


Showing the similarities between the knucks and the WWI trench knife.


The first wooden model. I realize the angles aren't entirely symmetrical, but that's why I used wood, eh?


The knucks in hand, or fist rather.




Edit: This is the revised design. I drew that last night. Notice the stronger angles (and symmetrical now). I also corrected the positioning of the weight-reduction/badass-looking slots at the bottom. They were slightly askew before.

[img][/img]

So what do you guys think? Opinions, criticism (preferably the constructive type), suggestions? Hope you guys like it!

P.S.
Sorry about the blurriness. My camera is starting to go.

Punchy punchy!

I like it. Were I you, I'd elongate the spike at the bottom of it, but very cool.

you should put another spike on the other side as well but otherwise it is sweet!

I'd rather not elongate the bottom spike simply because it'll be easier if all the spikes are of the same dimensions. I will, however, add more material underneath said spike, effectively extending it.

Uhlinator, I tried it with a spike on both ends but you keep jabbing your thumb on it. If I can get a copyright and locate a waterjet in southern-middle TN, I'll produce some with two spikes as well. I'm gonna try to get some black Micarta and make several out of that to sell. Would any of you be interested in buying a pair? I already have five of me mates lined up to buy some. I need to find a source for the spikes. Do any of you have one of those replica WWI trench knives? If you do then you know that the spike on 'em is what holds the blade in and just threads off. I need a crapload of those. Any ideas? I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere. Until then though, I'll just make them out of Micarta with the spikes completely attached. Anyway, thanks for the input guys.

Hey, I saw my initials
Good job, nice first contribution hehe

sweet set-up. love'em

sinza posted a thing about Star Trek Klingon knives,
https://sinza.forumotion.com/knife-making-f10/d-k-tagh-klingon-battle-switchblade-dagger-t632.htm?highlight=klingon
and there was a spiked pommel ball.
He had a place you could send for screw-in spikes.
I'm hunting for that advertisement. . . .

Okay in sinzas' klingon knife thread.
there was a post by headhunter15e showing where to buy spikes
http://studsandspikes.com/buy/spikes-c-43.html



The 1918 trench knife has a spike pommel nut.

Yes that's what I meant about the trench knife pommel. I couldn't think of the term for it. Thanks for the links mate. I believe I'm gonna go with these:

http://studsandspikes.com/buy/spike-hex-5-8-inch-bag-of-20.html

Or these:

http://studsandspikes.com/buy/spike-1-2-inch-tree-nb-1-bag-of-20.html

Still in a quandary as to how I'm going to attach them. Short of welding a screw onto the metal ones when I get some made, I can't think of how to do this on the cheap.

nice work

SN1P3RxA55A551N wrote:

Still in a quandary as to how I'm going to attach them. Short of welding a screw onto the metal ones when I get some made, I can't think of how to do this on the cheap.

What about threading a channel through your knucks for a long screw to be housed in?

Comme ca:


Not sure what to do for the middle spike though...

You'd have to tweak the area around the side spike too.

That's a really good idea! Thanks!

Lithium wrote:

Not sure what to do for the middle spike though...

You'd have to tweak the area around the side spike too.

I ran into that same problem
I ended up making a grove (because I couldn't drill into the side of the spike) and shove the spike into a small hole in the knucks.
Then I took a very, very small nail from a staple gun and hammered it through the knuck into the spike grove.
Made an image, because I can. It seems I can't make appealing MS Paint images...


And that's why I prefer making images in MS Powerpoint.

I would cut the head off a machine screw,
screw the bolt into the spike,
and then drill a hole in the knucks
screw the spike and exposed thread into the wood.

You can buy bottles of superglue called "Zap-a-Gap" for $5
they one type is ultra-thin, and will soak into the wood,
really grab the metal screw.

it will work like a dentist doing a rootcanal and post with a tooth cap.
There is no strees pulling it out, all the stress is compression.

There are also "all-threads" that are wood screw on one side, and machine bolt on the other.
but I don't know if you could get the exact size you need,
I've only seen them bigger.

If you are mounting into metal.
Then you want to drill and tap a threaded hole.
it's not hard, you drill an undersized hole,
and then work a special drill called a "tap" into the hole.
it kind of looks like a wine bottle corkscrew device.


video how to drill and tap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayduerGoCyw
he is doing in in plastic, a thru hole for water to flow thru a fitting.
but it's the same for metal, and a dead hole (not a thru hole.
You don't tap all the way to the bottom,
and in a metal dead hole, you have to back out, clean out the shavings a lot.
and you don't have to buy a whole tap set,
you can buy one drill, and one tap, and one handle.
you just have to pick the right size drill and matching tap thread size.

I WOULD JUST BUILD THE WOODEN ONE, A STUDIO PROP.
If you build the metal one, you're actually making a weapon.
Inevitably you'll be carrying it to show someone,
and some dick will tell on you to the cops, just for fun.
Stick with the wooden ones, keep them inside your house.
Don't go to jail.